Minato Japanese fare is full of flavor, flair

By Christie Genochio

SAN JOSE -- If there is a Japanese dining equivalent to the friendly, everybody-knows-my-name-or-at-least-fakes-it atmosphere of the "Cheers" bar, it's Minato Restaurant, located at 617 N. 6th St. in San Jose.

Established in 1961, Minato (which means "port") is San Jose's oldest Japanese restaurant and still sits in its original location just off of Jackson Street. Today, the good ship Minato sails smoothly at the hands of Gene Yoneda and his wife Joann, who have been involved in every facet of the restaurant since 1980 by serving, cooking, managing and now owning.

Although tucked away on the fringes of Japantown beside a Cuban restaurant, Filipino Community Center and abandoned warehouses, the strip of sidewalk illuminated by the restaurant's sign is perpetually clotted with clusters of people waiting to be seated.

In the rain, they wait. In the frost, they wait. In the sweltering heat, they wait. It could be Armageddon for all they care. Minato is always worth the wait.

The restaurant is truly small, and the sense of cramped-ness is alleviated only by the cleverly mirrored walls. The foyer might be euphemistically called "intimate," but it's really just claustrophobic. But once you cross the threshold, none of that matters. You're family when you're at Minato, and what's a little loss of personal space when among family?

It's the kind of place where on your birthday they carve succulent oranges into a basket and make you blow out a candle. Then out comes the Polaroid, and the next thing you know, there's a picture of you smiling your cheesiest birthday smile hanging on the wall that has become a veritable photo mosaic in the last few years.

As for the cuisine, appetizers run at a standard $2.95 and include edamame, inari (fried tofu), ya dofu (cold tofu), seaweed salad, potato croquettes and other light fare. Piping hot green tea is served free of charge, and the beverage list includes soda, Sapporo beer, plum wine and three kinds of hot and cold sake.

I dare you to find the entrée that doesn't include rice, salad and miso soup, but these can also be purchased on the side for a one-spot apiece.

Note, the miso salad dressing seems to have a cult following; it's their "secret sauce" and can be purchased at the register.

The sushi list may be short, but it makes up in quality what it lacks in variety. And nobody's going to quibble over their lack of nigiri after a peek at the dinner menu.

Almost every item is priced in the $9 to $12 range, and considering the generous portions it's more like getting two or three meals for that paltry price.

The gastronomic delights themselves are a kaleidoscope of fresh, delectable ingredients infused with savory flavor.

Uber-healthy steamer baskets burst with broccoli, cauliflower, squash, zucchini, mushrooms and your choice of chicken, fresh king salmon, tofu or seafood plus two kinds of sauce.

Udon and donburi bowls nearly explode with rice, noodles, egg and veggies while brothy, noodle-based dishes like sukiyaki and tori mizutaki are light on the waistline but heavy in the belly.

For saucier meals, the teriyaki spare ribs, chosen chicken (a tad spicier than teriyaki, with hints of ginger and sake), varieties of tempura and tonkatsu are well-balanced and palate-pleasing, but with a little extra kick, a Japanese je ne sais quoi.

For the indecisive, however, there is always the dinner bento box, which includes choices of chicken katsu or tonkatsu, California rolls or sashimi, teriyaki or chosen chicken and gyoza.

But Minato is really special because of the people who run it. Gene's relaxed, easy-going nature has made him a customer favorite, and not just because he always appears when you need a refill.

My brother, Joey, once asked him what the framed kanji characters on the wall meant. He replied, "That one's life. That one'sâ?¦ prosperity. And I think that might be good luck."

"How did you learn Japanese?" asked Joey.

"I didn't. The English translation is written on the bottom of the picture," answered Gene.

And with a twinkle in his eye, a broad grin and Joey's empty glass in his hand, he walked off to fetch the un-asked-for refill.

Contact Christie Genochio at (408) 551-1918 or mgenochio@scu.edu.