Spring swaps plain pastel for charismatic color

By Molly Gore

As a little girl, I whined to no end when formal occasions arrived in the spring that required my dressing fancy. In the spring, dressing up meant letting my mother deck me from head to toe in pastel peach chiffon, ugly muted florals and those beige iridescent tights that itched. She topped my ill-suited mushroom cut with a sun hat and satin bow, and I pulled on a dress whose volume was more appropriate for Scarlet O'Hara.

While my mother and sister pored over "Pollyanna" and "The Sound of Music," I was getting my knees bloodied up at the tennis courts or catching lightning bugs in my favorite multicolored leggings. Anything that was delicate or feminine bored and repelled me.

It would seem then, that if there is any of my young self left in me, the looks of this spring would have me running for the courts. Not so. The colors are bright, there is a delightful freedom in all the hippie stuff, flirty and feminine, but suits in strong shapes provide a strong androgynous antidote.

For years, I have combined the gray layers of my fall wardrobe with light summer brights in order to sidestep the flowery patterns and delicate feminine silhouettes that typically pervade spring fashion. This season, the fashion industry makes my recipe obsolete. This year's spring brings you all the expected brightness, flounce, florals and femininity, but not without a strong alternative. This season, runways offered pieces inspired by everything from Morocco to hippies to menswear.

Moroccan

Moroccan-inspired embellishments and flowy tunic silhouettes hit the runways in every form this season. Instead of splurging on detailed blouses or beaded tops, accessorize exotically. Think long, small-bead necklaces, embellished shoes, headbands and bags.

Hippie

The hippie trend is back, though not in quite the same Olsen-boho-chic way. Forego tight pants and big Bohemian pieces for something more subtle and comfortable. Loose, shapeless dresses in earthy or brighter, abstract prints are always a chic and effortless bet.

Layering

Layering is probably the easiest way to put together a good look. The days of matching and "fashionable" coordination are long gone. For the spring, combine thin layers of unexpected and different lengths over or under a dress, or with looser-fitting pants.

Florals

Spring will never arrive without floral prints, which appear this year in a broad variety of ways. Many are computerized and inorganic, typically bright and abstract. Otherwise, they are subdued and more natural, appearing on translucent fabrics. Mix them how you like, but combine too many and you'll create bad '80s upholstery.

Dip-dye and tie-dye

A characteristic favorite of established and classic design houses like Prada and Chanel, dip-dye has long been an artistic and elegant additive to contemporary looks. This spring, organic, asymmetric dye jobs appeared across the design spectrum from the conservative to the avant-garde of fashion. Incorporating dip-dye into your wardrobe is simple and effective, and especially attractive for those DIY-inclined. The result is fresh and eye-catching.

Contrary to popular advice, overdoing "look" and detail can turn out refreshingly put together if done well. Pile on the Bohemian or costume jewelry, and throw in graphic patterned tee or bright cardigan for some color.

Androgynous

For those whose gag reflex kicks in at the idea of pastels, nymph-like organic hippie-dresses and conventionally feminine silhouettes, consider the cure: androgyny. Companies like American Apparel have hit the gold mine with unisex T-shirts and hoodies.

Consider as well jackets with a more masculine cut and larger, maybe untailored, men's shirts. Think about pairing men's pants with the paper-thin layers and embellished accessories of the season. Punctuate the softness of organic silhouettes and colors with men's pieces that are more severe and structured, or something heavy and indelicate like thick-banded or studded gladiator sandals.

Color

Spring wouldn't be spring without color. The palates shift season to season, but winter grays and blacks are always abandoned for a more varied and sunny palate. This season, designers across the spectrum pulled out the stops on the bright dyes. Even a normally subdued and classic Ralph Lauren left behind a characteristic neutral palate for a flamboyant display of brighter hues. Colors are easy to incorporate with dip-dye, floral patterns and embellished accessories, and used to break up the earth tones of the hippie design genre and the severity of more androgynous pieces.

Instead of a clear direction or a collection of cohesive trends, this spring offers a palate of looks for everyone. From the fashion conscious to the deliberate anti-trendy, the runways provided inspiration for new genre combinations. Rules continue to be built every year, only to be broken the next. In view of this, it's important to remember that what's "in" is always less important than what you like. Take a look at your wardrobe, rethink, rearrange, remix and renew.

Contact Molly Gore at (408) 551-1918 or mgore@scu.edu.